Body Scores >>

Horse's body weight >>

Composition of food >>

Feeding >>

Practical Feeding >>

Types of Food >>

Water >>

2016 – 1 – LV01-KA202 – 022652

This project is funded

by the European Union

WATER is essential for life and health. Without water a horse would probably die in few days.

A horse drinks up to 30 litres in a day, and even more during a hot summer day. The lactating mares with foals are the highest consumpters.

WATER is needed for…

DIGESTION

… helps swallowing and provides a fluid medium for the food to passalonf the digestivetract. It also provides the basis for the digestive juices.

BLOOD

… the fluid containing blood cells and nutrients etc. It circulates round the body and carries waste from the tissues.

LYMPH

… to drain tissue and and help maintaining the right balance of body fluid. This is important for defence against diseases.

URINE

… to excrete the waste products, and as a vehicle to regulate levels of sodium, potassium and ohter electrolytes as determined by kidney function.

MANURE

…to supply fluid to aid excretion.

BODY

… to regulate the body temperature by transferring excess heat to the surface.

SKIN

… to get rid of surplus heat as sweat.

EYES AND NOSTRILS

… in the form of tears and mucus as a lubricant.

JOINTS

… in the form of „oil“ as a lubricant.

MILK

… to make 91%  of the milk of lactating mares.

THE PRINCIPLES OF WATERING

Horses must have clean, fresh water available in all times. If this is not possible, (for example when travelling) they must be offered some water before they are fed. It is typical for a horse to drink little and often, if possible. Large amounts of water should not be given shortly before or after hard training.

QUALITY OF THE WATER

Horses are very fussy about their drinking water. If they feel it is not clean, they will rather go thirsty than „risk“ by drinking it. That may cause problems when travelling – a horse might not want to drink water with unfamiliar taste. Sometimes it helps to add something sweet – a little of molasses or apple juice, for example.

Keep the drinking water always as clean and fresh as possible by checking water bowls regularly, at least once a day.

WATERING FOR STABLED HORSES

There are various types of water bowls and watering systems available. The most important part is to consider which would suit your stable and your horses best.

Every type of a water bowl should be large enough for the horse to get his muzzle in without a problem. Also, the bowls, pipes and containers should be kept clean and prevented from freezing.

The right place for a water bowl in a single stable is in a corner. On the floor it can be placed into an old tyre, or, if possible, the bucket could be hanged up and protected with a solid wood piece attached diagonally, to prevent it to be knocked over.  

AUTOMATIC WATER BOWLS

Advantages

water always available

less work for stable personal

some horses are afraid of the hissing sound and don’t drink

Disadvantages

unable to keep an eye on the amount of water being drunk

difficultier to clean

unsuitable for mares and foals

the system can be damaged by a horse

BUCKETS

Advantages

Possibility to keep an eye on the amount of water being drunk

Suitable for mares and foals once the handles are removed

Some horses prefer buckets

Disadvantages

Much work

Can be knocked over by a horse, so they might be left without water for some time

DEHYDRATION

Dehydration is the condition where more water and salts are lost from the body than taken in. The horse has not enough fluid iń his body to maintain normal physiological conditions.

Dehydration can be caused by

-          Lack of drinking

-          Prolonged and marked sweating

-          Diarrhoea (foals!)

-          Heat exhaustion

Dehydration may result in:

-          Reduced performance

-          Muscle damage

-          Colic

-          Reduced kidney function

-          Laminitis

-          Coma

-          Death

-          Azoturia („tying-up“

Signs of dehydration:

-          Skin loses its pliability („the 5 sec. pinch test“)

-          Loss of normal colour from the membraanes of gums and eyes and reduced refill time

-          Lack of eating

-          Listlessness

-          Muscle quiver

-          Pulse becomes small

-          Thick, patchy sweat

-          „Thumps“ – the diafragm contracts in the same rhythm as the heart beat (needs immediately veterinary help)

To think and answer:

-          Why would it be good idea to have the same person checking the water bowls or/and clean the drinkers?

-          How could one prevent the water bowls/drinkers/hoses to freeze in cold weather?

For the practical lessons:

-          The pinch test and Practical watering

2016 – 1 – LV01-KA202 – 022652

This project is funded

by the European Union

BASIC NEEDS OF A HORSE

A horse is a highly social prey animal, adjusted living in an open space. He needs to eat a little at a time but often, and when living in nature (or just grazing in our paddock) he is constantly moving.

That’s why it is said that a horse needs first “The three F: s” to be fulfilled: Friends, Freedom and Forage.

Friends:

The herd gives safety, certainty and social bonds. It means that a horse feels that he can safely eat enough, sleep enough, socialize with his friends by playing and investigating the surroundings, grooming, rolling and forming daily routines, and generally live as a horse is meant to live.   

Freedom:         

A horse is a prey animal, and his first reaction to an unknown is to flee. He needs his freedom and an open space to do that. That is why horses don’t like small spaces – narrow, shut, low, labyrinthic and so on. Also, that is why they don’t like uneven, soft ground, or sudden changes in goings. Or, that they don’t like they feet to be handled without teaching it to them. A horse needs his feet to keep his life, is what they feel.      

Forage:

Horse’s digestive system is accustomed to eat little and often. (We talk more about that in the feeding part.) Here it is important to remember that the constant eating is one basic needs for a horse in psychological terms also. The chewing gives him something to do and has a calming effect to a horse. 

2016 – 1 – LV01-KA202 – 022652

This project is funded

by the European Union

Introduction >>

Stabling >>

Daily and Weekly Routine>>

Bedding and Mucking Out >>

Safety Check in Sables and Fields >>

Healthy Horse >>

2016 – 1 – LV01-KA202 – 022652

This project is funded

by the European Union

HEALTHY HORSE

Once you get to know your horses well, it gets easier to observe how is he feeling. For more unknown horses you can use the following checkpoints:

In the stable

-       He looks happy and alert, but relaxed (overall well-being)

-       His eyes are bright and nostrils clean, he doesn’t cough (respiratory system)

-       His breathing is regular and steady (respiratory system)

-       He stands evenly on all four legs and has no difficulties to back from the door if asked to do so (posture and movement co-ordination)

-       He is quite still in his stable; no constant walking, pawing, swaying or head-tossing (physical pain, stress)

-       His stable (box) is generally clean – no more disturbed than others, bedding not over- or under-wet, his droppings are normal both in quality and quantity and he drinks normally (colic, kidney function)

-       He eats normally, both off the floor and from the bowl (teeth, back or neck pain)

-       He is happy to lift his limbs and let his feet be picked up (balance, joints)

-       He doesn’t mind touching, blanketing or brushing and his coat is shiny (trust, skin condition)

-       He lies down easily and gets up without difficulties or pauses (the functional mobility of his spine and pelvis, balance)

-       He has occasional rolls and shakes himself after rolling (the functional mobility of his spine and pelvis, balance)

-       He has cool and clean limbs and no visibly cuts (bruises, tendons)

-       When leaded, he walks in and out his stable door willingly but relaxed (coping with restricted areas, body control and body position)

In the field you can also check that

-       He moves evenly and fluently and has three clear paces (lameness, mobility and co-ordination)

-       He mixes well socially with others (social behavior, temperament)

-       He lets willingly himself to be caught (the attitude towards human and work)

The vital signs

A healthy adult horse

-       Has 28-42 heart beats per minute

-       Has body temperature between 37,5 -38,5 C`

-       Breaths 8-12 times per minute

-       Takes little naps while standing up

-       Sleeps deeply for few hours in every 24 hours. That means lying down on his side, so the head and neck are also on the ground

-       His manure should be a pile of roughly spherical shaped droppings. There should be around 10 piles in a day.

2016 – 1 – LV01-KA202 – 022652

This project is funded

by the European Union

DAILY AND WEEKLY ROUTINE

Here is an example of a daily routine at a horse yard (/horse stable), based on is how it is done at Carl Hester’s yard. There are some changes, mainly for clarifications or adjustments for our climate.

7.00 am - 8.30 am. The first thing we do is take round morning feeds, as we go into each stable we make sure previous nights feed has been eaten, check legs and see there are healthy droppings. After they have eaten we start to muck out, change rugs depending on the temperature and get the first horses ready to go out in the paddocks or on the walker. Carl and Charlotte arrive to start riding at 8.30 so we make sure the first horses are ready.

8.30 am - 1.30 pm. The yard is swept and we continue to get horses ready for Carl and Charlotte to ride, the team warm up the horses before they are schooled and walk them off, usually down the drive, when they finish, often Carl and Charlotte will hack them round the field together. After work all the horses and bathed and groomed. This is a really busy time with everyone focused to get the horses finished by 1.30

2.30 pm - 4pm. After lunch we clean the tack and do all the general yard duties, which are due for this day. This may include some preparing of the feeds, repairing some fences, maybe packing for a show or unpacking, calling a farrier or ordering food, cleaning out the paddocks or the walker, and so on. The horses are eating their lunch ad resting.

4pm - 5.30 pm. All the horses have a quick groom before night rugs are put on, we start the final tidy of the wash bays and tack room, skip out, sweep the yard, take the hay trolley round and finally evening feeds. The arenas are levelled and once the tack room is locked we leave to the sound of contented munching.

9.00pm. We take it in turns to do the late night check, a quick look over each stable door to see they are all comfortable and well. There is a time for the night hay.

Weekly routine

Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday: All the horses are worked as above.

Wednesdays and Saturday: Horses are hacked for an hour.

Sunday: Horses day off. Turned out where appropriate or on walker. This gives us a day to catch up on other jobs like pulling manes and tails, cleaning the horsebox and all the other jobs that crop up.

Thanks to: http://www.carlhester.co.uk/yard/daily-routine/

2016 – 1 – LV01-KA202 – 022652

This project is funded

by the European Union

SAFETY CHECK IN STABLES AND FIELDS

What to check and why

Wide and high enough doors and aisles (frightening, causing injuries)

Window bars (injuries)

No loose parts, nails or sharp edges (injuries)

No openings wide enough to put any size of hoof or nose in (getting stuck, injuries, even bone fractures)

Correctly working doors (injuries, loose horses)

The floor (non-slip, strong)  

Correctly fastened feed and water bowls and possible hay nets (injuries)

Poisonous plants (poisoning, death)

Safe and correct fences without loose parts or barbed wire (injuries, loose horses)

Strong, correctly working gates (injuries, loose horses)

Electricity in electric fence (loose horses)

2016 – 1 – LV01-KA202 – 022652

This project is funded

by the European Union

STABLING

Stabling can range from traditional stalls and loose boxes (stables) to communal systems such as crew barns and sheltered corral units. Horses can be kept individually within separate boxes or housed with several others in larger barns. All systems have advantages and disadvantages, but the same general considerations apply to ensure the welfare of the horses being housed.

Ventilation and drainage

All stabling must have a good drainage system, be well ventilated and free from draughts. Drainage requires a combination of structural considerations (such as a sloping floor and/or drainage channels) and effective stable management, combining the use of an appropriate bedding material and, when soiled, its frequent removal (together with muck and discarded hay).

Effective ventilation is essential, to ensure that horses have fresh air, which is free from dust and spores. In a stuffy stable environment these can lead to respiratory infections and health problems. The design of the building should allow for the free flow of air, and (ideally) the opening should face away from prevailing winds. Rugs can minimise the risk of chills, allowing good ventilation to be maintained.

Lighting

Plenty of natural light is desirable, and this can be provided by windows, open aspects and clear roof panels. Electric lighting (both inside and out) is essential during dark winter months, to provide a safe working environment for the keeper. Horses also benefit from a well-lit environment. All electrical fittings should be safe, durable and well out of the reach of the horses.

Bedding

It is essential to provide non-slip flooring. Rubber matting provides an excellent base that is both comfortable (allowing the horse to stand and lie down), and a good shock absorber, thereby helping to minimise stress on the horse’s joints from prolonged standing. If horses are stabled for long periods, additional loose bedding material should be used on top of the rubber matting, thus providing additional comfort and an absorbent disposable layer. If not permanently sealed, rubber mats require lifting on a regular basis, so that the floor beneath can be washed periodically with disinfectant.

The bedding provided must suit the horse (and also the time constraints on the keeper) and be of a suitable thickness so that, when the horse lies down, there is no chance of injury being caused by floor pressure or abrasion. This will also minimise the risk of becoming stuck (cast) against the walls if the horse rolls.

Various types of loose bedding material are available – such as straw, wood shavings, peat, shredded paper and chopped cardboard. Whichever bedding is used, it must be of good quality and hazard-free. Each type of bedding has advantages and disadvantages. The choice should be based on individual needs and circumstances. The effectiveness of a bedding material reduces if the bed itself is not kept clean or if insufficient quantities are used.

Thanks to: https://www.bluecross.org.uk/pet-advice/stabling-and-livery

2016 – 1 – LV01-KA202 – 022652

This project is funded

by the European Union

Bedding and Mucking Out
When keeping a horse in a stable it is necessary to use some form of bedding for the following reasons:
• Prevents injury
• Encourages the horse to lie down
• Prevents draughts
• Provides warmth
• Encourages horse to stale (urinate)
• Provides comfort for the horse
• Prevents jarring to the feet and legs
• Cleanliness

Whatever type of bedding used it should be:
• Of good quality
• Safe, in case the horse eats it
• Absorbent
• Dry and soft
• Readily available
• Easy to dispose of

There are a wide variety of materials that can be used for bedding. The most important factor to consider when choosing which type to use is maintaining the good health of the horse. Continually damp or wet bedding can create a bacterial breeding ground, which can adversely affect the health of a horse’s feet. Dusty or moldy bedding can cause respiratory problems for both the horse and anyone working in the environment on a regular basis. Bedding that does not absorb urine well enough will cause more ammonia to be released in the stable environment and again, will subsequently adversely affect the horses respiratory system.

As well as health and hygiene reasons, horse owners need to consider cost, availability and ease of disposal of soiled bedding when they are deciding which particular type to use.

Whatever bedding is used, thorough and regular ‘mucking out’ of the horses stable will help to reduce any adverse health effects as well as excessive waste of the bedding materials.

Common Bedding Materials

Peat         

Peat has the best ability to reduce the amount of ammonia in the stable environment and reducing the risk of damage to the horse’s lungs. Therefore it is the best bedding for stables where horses are in long hours.

Wood Shavings
Wood shavings are more absorbent than straw. Urine and waste tends to be absorbed locally, which makes it quicker and easier to keep clean than, for example, a straw bed is. Once a firm base is established less bedding needs to be removed, which makes it more cost effective and labour saving, than for example, straw. Shavings are generally pre-packaged in plastic bales and are easy to store and handle.  Generally wood shavings are sold as ‘dust-free’ bedding but it is good to moisturize them to a horse that has existing respiratory problems.

Wood Pellets
Wood pellets were originally designed as a bio-fuel but they are now being made and marketed as horse bedding.  Wood pellets are totally dust-free and have a very high absorption rate. They are more effective at absorbing wetness than wood shavings. Pellets come in easy to handle plastic sacks and are spread out in the stable, misted with water and left to break up, making a very soft and deep bed. Once a wood pellet bed has been established, very little extra bedding needs to be added on a daily basis, which makes it very economical and labour saving.

Rubber Matting
Rubber matting is a popular form of bedding. It is generally expensive to purchase initially but over time, the money saved in actual bedding material balances out the initial investment.
A small amount of bedding material is often laid down on top of the matting (usually peat or shavings) to help absorb the horse's urine and also to encourage horse to lie down. Matting provides excellent cushioning for the horse and is very comfortable for the horse to lie down on.

It is also very quick and easy to muck out, therefore labour saving. Mats should be completely removed from the stable on a regular basis to wash them down completely and allow them to dry out, before replacing in the stable with some fresh bedding.

Paper & Cardboard
Shredded or chopped paper and cardboard can be a relatively inexpensive type of bedding. In general horses find it unpalatable so they will not eat it. Although initially comfortable to lie on, it can sometimes compress and become flat and consequently will provide limited cushioning for the horse. The ink from the paper can also sometimes leach out and stain the horse’s coat. Paper can be very heavy to work with and can sometimes pose a problem when disposing of it when it is soiled.  It does not rot down or burn particularly well.

Bedding Management
Bedding can be managed in one of two ways: a ‘deep litter’ system can be followed or the bed can be fully ‘mucked out’ on a daily basis.

A deep litter system greatly reduces both the amount of bedding used and time needed to complete the task.  All droppings and soiled patches are removed on a daily basis but the base of the bed is never lifted. Small amounts of fresh bedding are added daily and scattered on the top. Initially a good deep bed should be put down and not be disturbed too much. The bed will gradually build up and will require complete removal once or twice a year. For the deep litter bedding it is wise to use peat because of its ability to to reduce the amount of ammonia in the stable.

Advantages:
• Warm, deep and comfortable
• The horse will usually lie down more frequently
• Economical
• Labour saving
• Horse is less likely to be injured by scraping up bedding and getting through to bare concrete

Disadvantages
• Will become very dirty if all the droppings are not thoroughly removed each day
• May cause foot health and respiratory problems if not appropriately managed
• Very hard work to remove the bed when necessary
• The bed may grow too deep and may consequently reduce the horse’s headroom

Mucking Out
Mucking Out should is carried out on a daily basis and is usually done first thing in the morning.
Equipment needed:
1) Wheelbarrow
2) Strong broom; natural bristle are more effective on uneven floors
3) Four-pronged pitchfork
4) Shovel
5) Shavings fork if using shavings/pellets etc
6) Gloves to protect hands

To Completely Muck Out a Straw Bed
• Remove the horse from the stable if possible and tie up in a safe location
• If the horse cannot be removed, tie up away from the stable doorway if possible
• Remove any feed or water buckets
• Remove any droppings and soiled/wet bedding
• The used but clean bedding is forked into a heap on one side of the stable one day and on the other side the following day. This allows the entire floor to air and dry out over a period of two days
• The floor should be thoroughly swept
• If the horse is going out to graze in the day, the bed may be left piled up to allow the floor to dry and be bedded down again before the horse returns from the field
• If the horse is to be left in the stable during the day then some of the clean bedding may be re-laid as a thinner ‘day bed’. Droppings should be removed at regular intervals throughout the day
• To bed down, the old clean straw is shaken up to put down evenly over the floor with the sides banked up higher against the walls. New straw should then be shaken up and put on top of the banks and the middle of the bed. The depth of the bed should be sufficient to prevent the prongs of the fork reaching through and touching the concrete floor
• After mucking out, wash out water buckets, refill and replace in box

Mucking Out Other Types of Bedding
When dealing with wood-shavings, pellets etc.
• Remove droppings and wet soiled patches with a shavings fork
• Fork and rake daily, taking dry bedding  from the sides of the box to the centre to give an even depth over the floor
• Top up with new bedding as necessary
• The bed should be as deep as a straw bed, approximately 30-35 cms
or:
• Remove droppings and wet soiled patches with fork
• Throw all bedding up around the sides, work through with a fork and droppings will fall out to the bottom and can be effectively removed
• Make sure the corners of the bed are dug out at least once a week
• This allows the floor to dry before putting the bed down and topping up as necessary

When dealing with rubber matting:
• Remove all piles of droppings and wet bedding.
• Push clean bedding to one side
• Sweep floor where horse has urinated
• Replace existing bedding and add more if necessary
• Periodically remove the mats from the stable and hose them off to give a thorough clean. In the warmer months you can also use this opportunity to disinfect the stables.

2016 – 1 – LV01-KA202 – 022652

This project is funded

by the European Union

Teacher book

Anesthesia monitoring.

Teacher

Līga Mačule

2017

2016 – 1 – LV01-KA202 – 022652

This project is funded

by the European Union